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Monday, July 13, 2020

My Trailer Redo - Day 110 - Starting Interior Walls

 
Here's a new definition of insanity for you. "Thinking that you can take flat, semi-rigid sheets of paneling and cover an irregularly curved surface."

Yup... that's what I'm going to do. Sort of. I just did the easy part today. But I started working out the problems of the harder parts.

First, I cut foam insulation board to fit the flat spaces on the door side. That was pretty easy, as I'm sure you can figure out. Let's get one thing straight. The curved area above where the insulation is, and across the ceiling, has to be covered in a totally different way. I have a plan, but that's not even on the radar yet.

foam insulation in a fiberglass trailer

Then I started cutting the beadboard. The first piece is narrow, because I want the full 4 foot wide piece to work around the curved corner. This is not ready to fasten in place yet. But you can get a sense of how it looks.

beadboard wall section in trailer interior
Then I started testing to see if my idea for the corner is going to work. The masonite paneling is a little flexible, but not enough to bend around the corner. My theory is that if you score the back with vertical lines you should be able to carefully flex it to fit the space. You can't force it too hard because masonite will shear into layers, so I want to be sure I know I can make this work before I start messing with the actual piece.

I started experimenting on a scrap. I thought I was going to do very shallow cuts with the circular saw. Nope. You can't set it shallow enough. Then I tried my Dremel hobby tool. Nope. I don't have any kind of wheel that actually cuts instead of just a grinding wheel, and there's not much of any way to control making a line. Then I tried my wonderful oscillating saw with the half-round blade. OK. Now we are getting somewhere. By using a piece of 1 x 2 as a depth guide, I was able to make cuts that are pretty straight and not too deep. I put one about every inch, and was almost able to bend this piece around the corner. I'll try again with cuts more often, but I think this will work.

The sample is a mess, because of all the experimenting, but you can get the idea. If I can't make this work, I'll have to cut narrow vertical pieces and work my way around the corner that way, but I'll have to buy a lot more trim pieces for that. I'm still optimistic on this plan.

masonite paneling scored on the back

I did some other trailer stuff as well. I sealed the vent with the black auto adhesive. The weatherman says it will get a test on Wednesday. I made quite a mess, but if it works... well, paint is good.

My friend Dick, who is also going to do some other metal work for me, will shorten the table rod. So, I spent some time figuring out what size piece of wood I need to fiberglass to the back wall to screw the table hinge fittings into. But the thickness of that piece of wood depends on how well I can fasten flat paneling to a curved wall, right? So I need to keep working on the wall covering.

And I hunted on line for trim pieces for the paneling. What I want exists. Lowe's may have it. Or not. One search said they do, and another said they don't. Does that make sense? Not to me. At least it's not a long trip to actually find out. Maybe that will be my rain day project.

And the morning was spent doing yet more errands. Do they ever end? No, of course, no. But, progress was made. Oh, and the mower is fixed again- new ignition switch this time (I did not do that job).

See Door Side Bench Seat

Sunday, July 12, 2020

My Trailer Redo - Days 108, 109 - Door Side Bench Seat

 
I wasn't sure I'd get this done today, especially since I spent hours in stores (but I did come home with everything I was looking for). I had to wait at the lumber store for them to get down a new pallet of 2x2s, and this is quite a process. The sales person has to go for a spotter. Then they have to close off two aisles with expandable gates- the aisle where the stuff is and the next one (I guess in case the person using the fork lift knocks something off the back side). Then they have to get the fork lift, and bring down the item from way up high, and then it has to go in its sales spot. Then they can open the aisles again. The good news is that I got some nice straight 2x2s instead of the garbage you usually have to settle for.

Well, this project started yesterday, with getting some polyurethane on the pieces of the bench seat. I had cut them out last year, except for the split where a hinge was to go. I cut the finger holes and sanded them enough to get the crud and splinters off. These aren't being finished for their good looks. In fact, I used "junk" plywood for some of it. I'm coating them to protect from more mold damage in case things get wet again. And it does keep the splinters down and makes them easier to clean.

polyurethaned wood pieces

Finally home with all the pieces of the puzzle, I put together the framing for underneath the seat.

framing under a small trailer bench

Here it is all put together. The worst thing about it is that the bunk space is not a rectangle with a rounded end; it's a parallelogram. I knew that, but was not willing to cut the plywood pieces in such a persnickity fashion. So I had to choose whether to align the front edges with the bench edge, or the side edge with the wall. I chose the front edge. These will all be covered with cushions anyway.

small trailer bench

The left and middle sections open to access the storage underneath around the wheel wells.

storage under a small trailer seat

There is no other news, except maybe the shopping. I found chunky peanut butter and graham crackers at Aldis! I really should be doing some other things besides the trailer, but obsession has kicked in. I just want to make progress!

See Table Decision Tabled

Saturday, July 11, 2020

My Trailer Redo - Day 108- Table Decision Tabled?

 
Here's my dilemma with the table. There are two basic ways of holding the table in position for these bed/table combo areas. Mine came with a pedestal and post system. The post fits into two flanges- one on the floor and one on the bottom of the table. You lift the table off and pull the post out to put the table top down into bed position. Then the post just rolls around wherever you put it.

In this picture, I just have the post balanced on a piece of cardboard so it won't scratch the vinyl. If I use this system, I have to screw that flange to the floor.

trailer table with a post and flange system

However, this is the old table, and when I get that far, I'm changing the length and shape of the table. If I use this system it will need two posts, and neither one will go in the same location as where it is now. You can probably guess that I don't want to screw that flange through the vinyl in a location that might change.

Actually, I don't want to use that system at all. What I prefer to use is the lift table bracket system. If you've seen these, you know what I mean. If you haven't, it's hard to explain. Basically it's a big "wire" hinge that is fastened to the back wall and the table. When it's swung down, the table rests in place to make the bed. When it's swung up, it's at table height. There is also a single leg on a hinge near the front end of the table to provide support. This system, once you get it installed correctly, is much easier to use, and much sturdier. I bought the hardware for this last summer.

However, I was afraid it was going to make the table top higher than I wanted, and I was right. That "wire" (actually bent rod) on the table is the hinge part. I need the length between the red lines to be an inch shorter. I've emailed the company to see if they have this size or can make me one. If not, maybe I can get one made. In either case, I'm probably not going to be able to get it in time for this trip.

trailer table hinge part

What I think I can do is mount the floor flange on another piece of plywood that will just sit on the floor, to give it stability. It won't be as solid as fastening it to the floor, but it will give me more time to hopefully get the part I really want.

I also put the other structural wall back in and toggled the other bench front up to use again for this trip. (It needed the paneling fastened on better. Staples just rattled loose.) You have to have both benches inside to be sure you have everything positioned correctly before fastening things. The "table" has to fit precisely in place on those bench edges. Still no holes in my precious vinyl! But probably tomorrow. Once the benches are really positioned, there's no reason not to screw those down.

inside a partially finished fiberglass trailer

My goal for right now is to get the door side bench done. At best, I'll get the door side looking pretty good. The other side has to have a lot of wiring run across beneath the wall covering anyway, and I won't get that far right now. I'd like to get some of the insulation and wall covering done on the door side, just to see if that is actually going to work the way I want it to.

Then I plan to tack the kitchen area back together, pretty much the way we used it last fall. That was basic, but highly functional. I'm not ready to start any finish work on that yet.

The sky was glorious! The temperature was better! The biting flies were busy, and the wildlife was curious. The chipmunk came to the front door and apparently thought I was going to let him in. (Not.) I was running the sander (should be able to show you that part of the project tomorrow or Monday), and the woodchuck ran right under the sawhorses, turned around and sat up and looked at me! Then a deer came and stood about 10 feet from the trailer and watched me.

blue sky

See Door Side Bench

Friday, July 10, 2020

My Trailer Redo - Days 103, 105-107 - Door Side Bench Front

 
Now I am actually making forward progress. That means that I'm doing something that isn't just a temporary functional fix so that the trailer is usable, but I'm adding things that are the way they are intended to be in the final makeover.

Well, it still doesn't look like much, but one bench front has its new covering. And you can see that one of the completed walls is put back in. Well, almost complete- I haven't even ordered the edge trim yet. That can be done much later.

partial bench in fiberglass trailer

Many, many steps to get here. I had already added to the original frames to make them work for my extended bench lengths, but the old paneling was still on the fronts. It turned out that was glued, and it splintered like crazy when I pried it off. Remember this kind of paneling that turns into tiny weapons the minute it's cracked? That stuff.

frame for a trailer bench

I wasn't sure about getting those off easily, but my oscillating saw came to the rescue once again. And then a little sanding made the frames good enough.

using an oscillating saw

I cut the pieces of the masonite beadboard to fit. You need to tape the finished surface of this stuff before you cut it or it will tear. Then you can just use a fine blade on the sabre saw.

masonite marked for cutting

Although I'm not going to get the actual wiring done before this trip, I'm planning ahead to where I want an outlet box. After I did the cutout, I just removed the box. We'll run an extension cord under the bench for now. That will be better than last year when extension cords had to be just draped over things.

cutout for an outlet box

The liquid nails is a perfect product for attaching the paneling to this frame. It just didn't stick to fiberglass well.

attaching paneling to a frame

Added the second piece and clamped it to dry.

attaching paneling to a frame with clamps

Here is where I added the extra step. The beadboard already has a white finish. However, I had noticed that it gets marked up practically every time something touches it. The label on the back explains why. This is not considered to be a finish, but more of a primer coat. I decided I had to get a better finish on it. So I went and bought paint.

Here's my next public service announcement. I bought the good stuff. I got Sherwin-Williams Extreme All Weather Protection Exterior Enamel. I bought a new brush, and not an el cheapo. I put on two coats. But I'm not very happy with the results. You can see every single brush stroke. But it's supposed to wear really well.

Meanwhile, I had cut and polyurethaned new trim boards for the front of the bench. These are more than just for looks. They hold the middle board (that doubles as the table) when you want to use that end of the trailer as a bed. So this has to be placed just right. I did make one little error, but I'm hoping it won't be a problem.

Eventually, this evening, I fastened the trim boards across the front, and put the whole thing in the trailer. Lookin' good!

interior bench framing in a fiberglass trailer

We had lovely rain in the night last night, and more this morning. Quite a bit. The vent is leaking somewhere, so I'll definitely put the last of that auto sealant around it. But the door was nearly water-tight!

I also worked on some interior stuff for the trailer that I'm not ready to show you yet. Tomorrow I have to make a decision about something to do with the table. I have not yet put any holes through the vinyl on the floor. But it has to happen soon, and I want to be sure they are not holes that I'm going to regret.

In other news: I walked to the nearest auto parts place to get oil for the car. It was quite low. That's not good.


See Temporary Door Fixes

Thursday, July 9, 2020

Banded Tussock Moth

 
I know I said I'd have something done on the trailer to show you, but I decided I had to add another step, and so there wasn't time to finish it.

Instead, have the Banded Tussock Moth, Halysidota tessellaris, also called the pale tiger moth. He's saying hello.

Banded Tussock moth

Here's the really odd thing. When I unfolded my sheet of fiberglass mat a few days ago to cut off a strip, 5 of these moths flew out. What the heck would they like about fiberglass?

Anyway, I thought they were just white.

Banded Tussock moth

Look closely. There are actually pale bands wiggling across the wings. And a definitive characteristic is the two aqua bands you can see on the top of the thorax.

Banded Tussock moth

The caterpillars are furry, with long "pencils" of hairs sticking out. I thought I had a picture of one, but can't find it tonight.

A much more interesting moth than I thought at first.

We did not get a lick of rain at my house. They did get rain in Scottville, a mile away. There may be hope for some yet tonight.

See True Blue Gumby II

Wednesday, July 8, 2020

Garden Survivors

 
I did a lot on the trailer project today, but don't quite have the next piece done. I'll wait until it's finished to share.

Instead, here are a few survivors from the attempted flower bed this year. The coleus are too widely spaced, but I really couldn't buy any more. However, they are looking colorful. There are now 3 fewer of them than in this picture. But they do make me smile when I walk by. And the rose I hate is blooming. Less than usual, also thanks to the deer!

coleus in a flower bed

Here is one of the blue hosta. It has been in wire prison since the deer missed it on their first forage of the garden. The wire does seem to keep them off, but it's not so pretty to look through to enjoy the plants. At least I can remove it for pictures. I don't know what variety this is. It was a freebie from Ester.

small blue hosta

This is one of my favorites. I bought one, but the deer finished it off. Then Ester gave me one, and I split it so there are two chances that I might get to keep it. This is a hosta variety called 'August Moon.' Yes, it's very yellow-green. That's not just a trick of the light. It's so bright and pretty- it's as good as a colorful flower and the color lasts all season if you can keep the leaves from being eaten. Both of these are also under wire.

August Moon hosta

I worked very slowly again. I think on a cooler day I could have done everything I accomplished in maybe 3 hours instead of all day. But I guess I need to take what I can get. I'm still trying to get outside earlier, but my brain does not appreciate it. I had a headache until noon today- usually the result of trying to wake up too fast. And there has been heavy dew the past couple of mornings, and that doesn't lend itself to doing some jobs when your workshop is totally outside. And, the golden biting flies arrived in time for lunch again.

It's supposed to rain tomorrow night. I have a book event that I have to leave for at 3 pm. So I brought in most of the tools today (I've been leaving everything out on a table and covering it with a tarp since the probability of rain has been down around 5% for the last 10 days). I'll just try to finish this one piece of the trailer project in the morning and then clean up and make sure I'm ready to get my head into book sales.

See A Little More Garden

Tuesday, July 7, 2020

My Trailer Redo - Day 104, Temporary Door Fixes

 
I spent the day primarily trying to temporarily jury rig a couple of issues with the door that can't be properly fixed until the door is re-hung. And I'm not tackling THAT in the next two weeks.

I have no picture for the first one. I thought I took one, but I guess not. I'll try to explain. Because the door is crooked, the latch in the door does not catch on the fiberglass door edge which serves as the striker plate when things are correct. To compensate for this I had taped a cut-out piece of a tin can along the edge to make it a little wider. With the edge gasket slipped over it, this worked OK. It allowed me to latch and lock the trailer. If someone broke in, they wouldn't have had to work very hard, but the key word there is "broke." They couldn't have simply opened the door. Important to the insurance company.

Anyway, with the rest of what I'm going to show you today, that was not adequate, because there was too much pressure on that thin piece of taped metal. So I sloppily fiberglassed it to the edge of the door to make it more rigid. Ugly. Functional. You probably don't need a picture.

Then I got serious about building a temporary gasket for the door. Yesterday, I accidentally discovered that the butyl putty tape sticks really well to the pool noodle foam. Need I say more? Pool noodles are a buck at the dollar store! The butyl tape is more expensive, but I only used a little bit by csplitting it lengthwise, and the results are well worth it.

So, I shut the trailer door, cut strips of pool noodle and stuffed them in the cracks. That's not blue sky you are seeing along the top edge of the door. It's pool noodle. Just happens to be the same color.

makeshift gasket in a trailer door

The I hosed the door down. See, I fudged a little when I said all the leaks were fixed. I wouldn't call the door-water issue an actual leak. It's that fitting problem that I've known about since day 1. But in truth, when it rains, the water simply runs in a river down the inside of the door. When the door is closed. Not so great. Maybe not so bad if it all continued to just run to the outside, but it doesn't. See Water Woes.

By experimenting, I found that most of the upright edges of the door don't need a lot of thickness of "gasket." Aha! I have the solution to that, with this product that I bought thinking I wanted it for the windows, but it didn't work for those.

foam window sealing tape

The edges of the door were a mess because of previous owners also trying to stop the leaks, with multiple layers of gunk.

gummed up fiberglass trailer door edge

Imagine my surprise when I learned that this scraped off quite easily. I got one strip of the foam on when I discovered that not only was it getting very hot very early in the day, but the work-killer was that apparently my Bingo card of the week included a square for little-biting-flies-with-golden-wings-and-razor-blades-mouth-parts.

fiberglass trailer door temporary gasket with foam strip

No. I'm not under that much pressure. I ate and went shopping. More on that later.

Later, early evening, it cooled a tiny bit and the flies found someone else to torment. I stuck my cheapo gaskets on, closed the door and watered it down again. Vast improvement! The only place that leaked was that gap at the bottom.

fiberglass trailer door with pool noodle gaskets

There is still that huge gap at the bottom of the door. Maybe I'll just cut a piece of the pool noodle that fits there, and if it rains, we'll jam it in the crack.



sprung fiberglass trailer door

There are actual gaskets made for these doors, but the gap needs to be much more uniform in width. This should work for now.

Mission accomplished, I think!

The shopping. Well, I had to do some ordinary errands, and finished with groceries. In between, I started buying some odds and ends I need to do the bunks correctly, and some things for the wiring inside the trailer. I can finish part of the right side without needing to do wiring, but not the left. It's not clear how far I'll get with all this, but I need some pieces of the puzzle to continue. Of course, I couldn't get one thing I wanted. Went to 4 stores, came home and ordered it. It's supposed to arrive in a week. That will work. Let's hope it's fast. And it's absolutely a given that I don't have everything I need. For one thing, I didn't buy the new wire for the trailer lights. That all has to be redone, but I need to measure how much, and research what gauge (what's in there isn't all the same- just toggled together, of course).

And that is all the news for today. Too hot, too humid.

See Index to Trailer Refurbish

Monday, July 6, 2020

My Trailer Redo - Days 95-103, Keeping Water Out

 
I may have licked the leaks!

You might recall that I sat in the trailer one night this spring in a torrential storm and watched
1. water pour in beside the rear window.
2. It was also still seeping in under the large hole where the air conditioner was.
3. The roof vent was leaking, which had never, ever happened before.

Let's talk about #2 first.

Every day, I've been putting another piece of fiberglass on the inside of the trailer to try to stop that seepy leak. On Thursday, I turned the hose on the area on the outside, and WHOA! big leak. What the heck? So I dried it all off, fooled around with pressing a wet sponge on smaller areas to try to isolate the leak, looking things over, and much to my chagrin, discovered something I knew, but had forgotten about. When I removed that big honkin' air conditioner frame, I had cut through the trailer skin below that little bump, where you can't easily see it. Ouch. Well, that explains the leak, you think?

cut in wall of fiberglass trailer

So, I slapped on some more fiberglass over that cut. I may not be able to make the exterior look perfect in that area, but that was unlikely anyway, given the big cutout. I'm almost ready to Bondo that, and then we'll know how smooth I can get it. I guarantee you it will look better than that big yellow square that's there now!

fiberglass repair wall of fiberglass trailer

Hose time- No leak!!!!

#1- so numbered because it's the most serious. Now we move on to the back window. Well, sort of. Let's detour to #3. Every time I turned the hose on, I was also spraying the roof to get some water up there and find the vent leak. No leak.

The back window is an issue. For one thing, it doesn't fit the cutout in the frame very tightly. Also, the front and back windows are much bigger, so there is more possibility for torque to loose the seals. I loosened the screws and was about to take it out, but it really was in there quite firmly. I decided to see what I could do from the inside. Two of the framing pieces around the window cutout really needed to be replaced anyway. I had tried to fix the lower one with Git-Rot, but it honestly wasn't sufficient. In the same post linked about the Git-Rot, I also replaced one of the framing pieces on a side window. I had used Liquid Nails Heavy Duty to glue it to the fiberglass, but I was definitely not happy with those results.

I pulled off the top and bottom framing pieces, and used my oscillating saw to clean up the old messy adhesive. Picture is before the cleanup.

framing around a fiberglass trailer window

So I asked Gary what adhesive he would recommend- the product also had to be able to fill uneven places as well. And that's how I found out about the auto adhesive I showed you yesterday.

Back up a second. After I took the two boards off that needed to be replaced, I packed the excess space all around the window with more butyl.

trailer window frame packed with butyl putty

This helped, but there was still a significant leak on the top edge. Well, I took a fat bead of that auto adhesive and smeared it all along the top of the window on the inside, bonding it to the fiberglass. It means that if that window has to come out in the future I may have troubles. But if I don't stop the leaking I've got worse troubles.

Let that dry, packed the butyl that is on the outside more firmly and tried some gentle water with the hose. No leak! Waited a while and tried some heavier pressured water with the hose. No leak! Waited a while and let the sprinkler rain on the back of the trailer for a half hour. No leak! Not even any dampness. Is it possible that I've conquered this thing?

Used more of that adhesive to glue the new window framing back in place. I had to get a little creative with the clamping, but I rigged something up.

clamping a glued piece of wood

So my ace in the hole is that if leaks develop on down the road (literally), I'll remove the bead of butyl on the outside edge of the window frame and use more of that windshield adhesive. I don't think I can get it to look very good, but at least it can be painted over.

Tried again to make the vent leak. Nothing. Maybe the wind of that storm was lifting the vent cover just enough to force some water in that way. I have a little of the auto adhesive left, and it doesn't keep. Maybe tomorrow I'll run the last of it around the vent anyway.

So... my reward is that I put down the floor ventilation pad. It was not as difficult to get it smooth as I thought it would be. Best thing I did was take off my sneakers. Sock feet did not catch on the rubbery finish.

rug pad on trailer floor

And then put the vinyl back in. Still looks great! I have to make a couple of holes for wires (they are under where the lumps show), and think about any other issues with it, but I may be ready to start making forward progress.

vinyl on trailer floor

There is no other news. It was hot and humid again, and I only worked on the trailer. But I feel like I really accomplished something.

See Drain Holes
See Index to Fiberglass Trailer Refurbish

Sunday, July 5, 2020

My Trailer Redo - Days 95-102 - Letting Water Out

 
Project 2 on my list of 3 is perhaps done. That was to create a way for excess water to get out of the trailer.

I can not take credit for this idea. People who own and try to keep old fiberglass trailers running and functioning have several ways they band together. A man from Iowa, Gary, is in two of the online groups I also belong to. This is his solution to the fact that water will get into the trailer from time to time.

I thought I had mentioned, but can't seem to find it, that after I put in my wonderful vinyl floor, I had to take it all back out because water got underneath it and it got moldy. It was a very discouraging day when I discovered that. So that all had to be cleaned. I wasn't willing to put it back in and have that happen all over again for the trip last fall, not to mention that I would have to put holes in it that weren't going to be the permanent holes. So we used the trailer last year with the old filthy, stinky carpet put back down on the floor.

Time to put holes in the floor! (Yeah, I know... I had recently patched all the holes in the floor.)

First, I had to decide where to put the new holes. Since the inside of the trailer is basically a fiberglass sealed bathtub (there is a fiberglass skin over the 3/4 plywood floor), I leveled the trailer up, sloshed in an inch of water and then swept most of it out until I determined 5 low spots where water pooled. I dried the trailer out and marked those spots. Thought about drilling the holes.

Not so fast! Had to think about whether any of my choices were going to be located beneath bunk walls, or above frame pieces underneath the trailer. Yikes. And nothing is simple. Spent ???, something short of forever, looking for my hole saw set that hasn't been seen in 30 years. Nada. So I had to give in and buy one. (Aside- If there is one thing on my forever wish list, it's an actual place where my tools could be kept and organized. Think I'll ever get that before I die?)

Next public service announcement. If you want to drill holes in anything significant, like 3/4 inch plywood, skip the cheaper hole saw with interchangeable blades, and just get the better saws the first time.

hole saw with hole begun

Anyway. As you can see by the circles marked on the floor, I had to adjust the placing of this hole a bit. Then you drill the larger outer hole, just enough to countersink the edge of the drain cover. And what am I using for a drain cover? At Gary's suggestion, I bought a package of 2.5" soffit drains. They seem perfect. They will let water out and keep mice, etc. out from underneath. Then you drill the 2.25" hole all the way through.

drain hole in a trailer floor

Again, I am using Gary's recommendation for how to hold the drains in place. This is the product I could get locally. It's an automotive adhesive for windshields. Product #8690 is pretty much the same thing, but half the price. Of course, I would have had to order that, and there isn't time to wait for that to arrive. This stuff will really stick! But I now have utmost respect for anyone who can use it and not make a mess.

automotive windshield adhesive


Well, these won't show anyway. They'll be under the flooring. I'll show you the neatest one. I coated the sides of the holes with the adhesive to waterproof them, and then put a bead around the edge and glued the covers in.

floor drain in a trailer

I did think up the next part of this solution myself, but as Gary and I were discussing things, it turns out he did the same thing but with a heavier product. I'm putting a ventilated mat under the vinyl. This is a rug mat, and I'm hopeful it will keep the vinyl lifted just enough that any water can travel to the drains. We'll see, right?

rug matting

I cut it to match the vinyl. I'm not quite ready to put it down on the trailer floor yet. I still have that third project to finish- which is to stop the known leaks. I'm working on them! There are several other things I'd like to get done before Sunny goes on this year's trip, but stopping the leaks has to be accomplished.

rug matting cut to size

Today was very productive. It was just as hot, but the humidity wasn't as bad, and I got outside and got a lot done before it got blazing hot. No yard work done, but I did do a load of laundry.

See Project 1 - Finishing the Structural Walls
See Index to Trailer Refurbish
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