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Showing posts with label Sheltowee Trace. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sheltowee Trace. Show all posts

Saturday, October 24, 2026

Comments About Sheltowee Trace

 It seems fitting to share a few thoughts about the Sheltowee Trace in general.

I'm going to divide it into the northern and southern halves. Officially that's at a place called Hazel Patch, but roughly speaking it's near I-75, and that's easy to find on a map.

Overall, the southern section is much more trail-like with significantly less road walking. I am pretty sure it gets hiked more as well. However, most of the time where there has been actual trail construction, it's been done well. A lot of the northern part is shared with ATV trails with bad footing- mostly loose rocks.

I think the trail is hiked more in winter. Summer would be just too hot. That suggests that their maintenance season is just starting, and I have heard of some work parties out cutting downed trees.

Just to get it over with, the worst section for me was the one just north of Cumberland Falls. That was mostly due to downed trees across the trail.

The best section was from the John Muir Trailhead to the John Muir Overlook, and most of the way down to No Business Creek. Here is a map of that section. See all those funky toothed lines? Someone or some group that really knew what they were doing planned, laid out and built these six miles of trail. The treadway stays almost exactly on the same grade for that entire distance, following the contour lines. Once past John Muir Overlook, there is a very steep drop down to No Business Creek. There is a little bit of rock scrambling at the very top of that, and a ladder. In fact, this is the location where we invented the word "twitchbacks" for too-short runs on switchbacks. However, after just a few of those, the runs lengthened and the descent down to the creek was smooth. The trail had to drop 400 feet in 1.1 miles of trail. Overall, they did a great job with that.
map of part of the Sheltowee Trace


I do want to commend the trail builders for some excellent rock work. We saw a lot of hand-built stone steps like these. These are a lot of work, and they take time to do them correctly.
rockwork steps on a trail


There were also a number of stone water channels. Here's a really nice one. The water stays in the channel and hikers just step over.
stone water channel


There were also some good retaining walls to hold benching in place.
stone retaining wall on trail


The only rockwork that wasn't as good was water bars. Most of those were not overlapped correctly, which let water drain through them, not off the trail.

Overall, I have to say that the Sheltowee Trace is a fairly rugged hiking trail that has some challenges- as a National Recreation Trail, they have to accept more mixed use than some trails. Sharing with ATVs and horses is really hard on a treadway. As for the rock scrambling... mostly I thought it was fun, but a potential hiker should be aware that there are a few difficult places.

I managed to do the entire trail as a series of day hikes with some 13+ mile days. And there are a couple of sections where you can't shorten that. We used the FarOut App and were very glad we had it, as some of the junctions were not marked very well.

It was quite dry when we hiked, but the trail would be a big challenge in the spring. There are hundreds of stream crossings with no bridges, and some of them would be impassible in the spring. In most instances of potentially dangerous crossings, there was an alternate high-water route, but not everywhere.

All-in-all, I had a blast! My knees did NOT like the 13+ mile days, but they survived. I was pleased at how well the body held up given its age and previous wear and tear. I did have a bail-out plan if I decided I couldn't do it all after the first half. But other than being pretty tired, I never even contemplated quitting.

In other news: I almost did a day's work today. Got the laundry done. The pile in the kitchen is very small now. I wrote one of my newspaper columns.

See Sheltowee Trace- Fini!

Saturday, October 17, 2026

Sheltowee Trace- Day 30- Fini!

 We made it- in pretty good time, finishing at 3:25. There is no southern terminus sign, so we had to use the Burnt Mill sign.
hikers at Burnt Mill Tennessee sign


We weren't sure the day was going to go so well. It rained most of the night and we broke camp for the final time in the rain and the dark. Then we had to put the extra cars somewhere since we had to vacate camp It was still raining when it was time to start hiking at 9:00. We thought that was a pretty good start with all the added difficulties.
hikers in rain gear


We immediately, on the other side of the bridge, started up the biggest climb of the day. The trail was marked no horses, and even had a exclusion gate, but horses had been up it, churning up the dirt and knocking steps out of rockwork constructed for hikers. I know that sometimes we have to share the trail, but why do equestrians have to do this on trails that are marked "no horses." Do they not realize how much it damages the trail for hikers, or do they just not care?

Anyway, that first hill was close to 700 feet. On the way, we passed Devil's Den. The elevation profile for the day said we had a total of 1700 feet of climbing for the day and 1500 feet of descent. We were able to shed the ponchos after a while. The temperature was perfect for us northerners- it stayed in the mid-50s.
Devil's Den


It was impressive, but the boulder scrambling got our attention more particularly. We didn't get any pictures of the actual scrambling (we were a little busy trying not to slip on wet rocks and leaves0, but there were some interesting places. Guess where the trail goes here.
hole between boulders


Haha. We didn't believe it so we scrambled around the rocks to the left where many other people had done the same. Came around to the other side and learned that northbound hikers get some directional help. There is an arrow scratched on the rock Doug has his hand on.
hiker in boulders


And even though I had to pass up Maude's Crack, there was a chance to do rocks and rope right on the trail.
hiker descending a rock with rope


Sue met us for lunch at the top of the second hill at Honey Creek Loop TH. The trail got much better after that and we were able to pick up some speed.

We took the final steps coming in to the Burnt Mill TH just before 3:30 in the afternoon.
hikers on Sheltowee Trace


Great thanks to all who hiked with me and helped in so many ways. God has allowed me to finish one more moderately big hike, and it was grand! At 78, I don't take any big hikes for granted any more.

One more little piece of good fortune- I sewed a patch on the inside of my pants a week ago because they were worn through in a couple of places. It held out until the end!
patched pants


Tonight we ate out, and are staying in a motel before everyone goes their separate ways tomorrow.

Miles walked in 2026: 645.8
Sheltowee Trace miles: 317.1 (I had to skip the tornado damaged part, remember)

Sheltowee Trace, Tennessee. O&W Railroad Bridge to southern terminus at Burnt Mill TH. 11.9 miles
See Sheltowee Trace- Prom Queen

Friday, October 16, 2026

Sheltowee Trace- Day 29- Prom Queen

 It's hard to pick the feature of the day because two monumental things happened. But I'll share this one first. Yesterday as we were taking a break at Leatherwood Ford (where Hwy 297 crosses the Big South Fork) we saw a lady come off a trail, go to her car, and pack up her stuff. She was memorable because of what she was wearing. And we ran into her on the trail today!

Her trail name is Prom Queen because she hikes in the colorful dress you see here. She's hiked the AT, the Camino de Santiago, and the Ice Age Trail, and a lot in New England because she lived in the White Mountains. She had heard of me! (Because of my NCT hike- it's apparently newsworthy when you do something after you are old.) We chatted a bit. She's basically sold all her possessions and just hikes now. But she says she's recovering from a knee injury and doing shorter hikes for a while. We know a few of the same hiker people. She's doing loops to try to get all the Sheltowee in Tennessee on this trip.
two hikers


The other really outstanding thing is that we did not have to wade the Big South Fork river. Chris and Jen were canoeing, and they ferried us across. We got to start hiking with dry feet!
4 people in a canoe


For some reason, this just struck me as funny. We were going up a hill to meet yet another rock face. The left part is white and the right part is dark, but it's all rock. I wondered how we were getting up it since the elevation profile of the trail made it clear that we were going to the top.
rock wall


But the trail turned to the right and went along the base of the wall higher and higher.
rock wall


But it didn't seem like the trail was rising fast enough. It wasn't- there was a ladder/stairs for the last part!


We thought of this yesterday, but we have a new name for switchbacks that have short runs. I've always called them zippers, but they are now going to be "officially" twitchbacks.

Tomorrow is the last day, but it looks tough.

Miles walked in 2026: 633.9
Sheltowee Trace miles: 305.2

Sheltowee Trace, Tennessee, Station Camp Ford to Bandy Creek Campground- 9.2 miles

See Sheltowee Trace- O&W Railroad

Thursday, October 15, 2026

Sheltowee Trace- Day 28- O&W Railroad

  We had to change plans before we even got very far out of the campground this morning. A semi-trailer was trying to come down the switchbacks on 297, went off the edge and managed to block both lanes of the road. We were able to turn around, but the only way to get to our planned starting location added 61 miles to the drive! We jumped ahead a day instead. I know I said we weren't going to do that, but I guess I lied.

The feature of the day was ending at the Oneida and Western Railroad Bridge. Oneida & Western ran from Oneida to Jamestown, Tennessee, carrying coal, lumber, mail, groceries and passengers. From the size of the rock cuts they had to make (the road to the bridge is on the old railroad bed), it cost a LOT to build. It began operation in the 1920s, and the final run was in 1954. Most of the profit was made in the early years

Interestingly, the reporting mark is O&W, which confused me. Every rail line has to have a unique reporting mark. There is a rail line in Ohio that interacts with the North Country Trail in a few places. But I guess it is OR&W- Ohio River and Western. And in New York, the Ontario and Western is NYO&W.

This bridge is now primarily used by trails, although cars are still allowed to cross it.
O&W railroad bridge


The next snafu is that my camera did not take any pictures for reasons unknown. I just checked it and it's fine. Maybe the SD card wasn't seated right. So Doug took all the pictures I'm showing today.

The nice news is that almost all of today was downhill, and the treadway was mostly good.

One of the highlights (and high point in elevation) was views from the top of a hill that apparently has no name. This cliff is on the other side of Falls Creek
Overlook near Big South Fork


But if you looked off into the distance, you could see the Big South Fork out there.
view of Big South Fork


One of the oddest, and maybe saddest things, was this single grave for Archie Smith. He was born in 1932 and died when he was 5 months old. You can only get to the grave by hiking, but someone is keeping his memory alive.
grave of baby Archie Smith


It's been a while since I've done a picture like this. Just fun!
woman sitting on a rock edge


We also saw two young copperheads, and a large black rat snake.

Now I've struggled with transferring pictures as much as I want to. Tomorrow we will fill in the missing piece and Saturday... I finish!

Miles walked in 2026: 624.7
Sheltowee Trace miles: 296

Sheltowee Trace, Tennessee. Bandy Creek Campground to O&W Railroad Bridge. 10.6 miles

See Sheltowee Trace- Wading the Big South Fork

Wednesday, October 14, 2026

Sheltowee Trace- Day 27- Wading the Big South Fork

  I think the big story of the day is that we ended at Station Camp Ford across the Big South Fork River. Doug went and checked it last night to be sure we could do it. Horses cross here regularly, but humans are shorter and I'm on the short side of adult humans, and we needed to check the strength of the current. By using this ford, we were able to even out the mileage on the last few days a bit. It made today long, but we decided to go with it. Of course, we'll begin tomorrow by wading it again.
wading big south fork river


About halfway through the day we took in the view from the John Muir overlook. It's impressive. You can't even see the river down at the bottom.
John Muir overlook Tennessee


The long descent down the toe of the hill below the overlook was actually well-built, but it was pretty steep at the top. These stairs were more like a ladder, and we both chose to go down backwards.
hiker descending ladder


The other news of the day was Maude's Crack. This is an actual crack in a huge rock wall that just appears out of nowhere in the woods. You can see Doug's blue shirt, where he's standing, for scale.
Rock where Maude's Crack is


It "killed me" to pass up doing it, but my legs aren't real happy with the 13-mile days, and it was a big scramble just to get to the crack. And there were still 4 miles to hike. But Doug went up it. Maybe you can see the yellow rope in the crack behind him. You have to use the rope to get up the crack because it's so steep.
Maude's Crack


Sue had taken a picture of the top a few days ago when she hiked to it.
Maude's Crack


We completed the miles in pretty good time, thanks to some good trail construction.

Miles walked in 2026: 614.1
Sheltowee Trace miles: 285.4

Sheltowee Trace, Tennessee. John Muir TH to Station Camp Ford, 13.4 miles

See Sheltowee Trace- No Bridge Over Troublesome Waters

Tuesday, October 13, 2026

Sheltowee Trace- Day 26- No Bridge Over Troublesome Waters

 Today, we went back and hiked the missing piece in Kentucky. From now on, everything should be in north to south sequence.

Ha ha! I was going to post about the bridge over troublesome waters, but it washed out several years ago. However, it was OK, because Troublesome Creek didn't even have any water in it today. We aren't sure why it was so troublesome to someone.


There was a bridge, however, over Difficult waters. Difficulty Creek bridge had been recently repaired. And the creek valley was deep and had water in it, and it would have been a steep scramble down to creek level. We are very happy for bridges.
Difficulty Creek Bridge


For a large part of the day we followed a very old road grade that we are thinking was used to access the Beatty Oil Well. Now here's an enigma of hairsplitting.

The Beatty Well struck oil in 1818 and produced quite a lot of oil. However, it was originally drilled to find brine (salt) not oil. The Drake Well in Pennsylvania claims to be the first commercial oil well (1859). The difference seems to be that the Drake Well was drilled specifically to find oil. To split the hairs even finer, Noble County, Ohio drilled for brine in 1814 and struck oil. It was bottled and sold as Seneca Oil, an all-purpose medicine. Most of the "snake oil" remedies sold for decades across the country were crude petroleum products and mixtures. So, who really had the first well? Who knows. But this is where the Beatty Well was, and at its height, it oozed 100 barrels of oil a day. It was sent down the Cumberland River to be repackaged and sold as linement, pitch, and lamp fuel.
site of Beatty Oil Well


We saw another box turtle, but this one's legs and the top of his head were gorgeous with bright yellow spots.
box turtle


The mornings have been cool and foggy. I finally got a picture of the sun rays breaking through.
sun rays through fog


Tomorrow will be our last day over 13 miles. That's fine with me! Only 4 hiking days to go.

Miles hiked in 2026: 600.6
Sheltowee Trace miles: 272

Sheltowee Trace, Kentucky. South of Ledbetter TH to Peters Mt. TH- 11.3 miles

See Sheltowee Trace- KY to TN

Monday, October 12, 2026

Sheltowee Trace- Day 25- KY to TN

 Today was out of sequence, so we still have one day to hike in Kentucky, but today we crossed the state line. At least Kentucky had a sign!
two hikers at Kentucky Tennessee state line on Sheltowee Trace


There was actually a little trickle of water coming over this rock. Can you just see the splashes where it is hitting the rocks below? It doesn't seem to have a name.
waterfall


Then we walked for nearly a mile in/beside this unnamed creek. This is when we were walking in the creekbed. In addition to this, the trail crossed it 19 times. I don't think this is a trail to hike in springtime.
rocky creek


We saw a harmless Black Rat Snake.
black rat snake


For the last big climb beside Massie Branch (creek) we were again on an old rail bed. This made the climb very easy!
Stearns Logging RR by Massie Branch Tennessee


Judging by the patterns of moss growth when we got a little higher, I thought they had not pulled out the ties. When we got a little higher, guess what!? Exposed ties.
old railroad ties exposed by erosion


And guess what again? This is yet another part of the Stearns Logging Railroad empire!

We got a bit of a late start hiking. We had to move to our final campground, and then do some exploring to get good intel about some of the pickup points I had planned to use. We massaged our plan a bit, but we like the new one a lot. Tomorrow, we'll go back and fill in the missing piece in Kentucky.

Miles walked in 2026: 589.3
Sheltowee Trace Miles: I think I messed this up somewhere. I think I'm at 260.7. I'll double check tomorrow.

Sheltowee Trace, Kentucky and Tennessee- Peters Mt. Trailhead to John Muir Trailhead. 9.0 miles

See Sheltowee Trace- Tipple Bridge

Sunday, October 11, 2026

Sheltowee Trace- Day 24- Tipple Bridge

 You know if there's a good railroad story it's going to be my highlight of the day. Today we walked past the end of the Tipple Bridge. We visited it by car yesterday down at the lower level. Today we were high on the hill at the level of the bridge. It's closed even for pedestrians, but at least I could sort of shoot a picture down its length.
Stearns KY Tipple Bridge


What is a tipple bridge, you ask? It's where gravity is used to transfer coal (most commonly) from one train to a different one. Here is what it looks like from down below. Trains with coal would come across the high bridge, and dump the coal through this light gray structure into the waiting cars below. You can just barely see black cars below.
Stearns KY coal tipple


There was one other chance to see this bridge from an overlook today. However, when Doug and I got there, there was so much fog we could barely see it. Sue took this picture earlier in the morning. It sort of puts that huge bridge in persepective in the landscape.
Stearns KY Tipple Bridge


They had an excellent model of the operation. I managed to get one picture without too many reflections. First of all, let me say that the trail goes along the orange and blue lines near the top. Trains would come over the high tipple bridge (orange line), and dump the coal down through the building. Then the train would continue on the orange line. When the last car was clear, they could back up (blue line). When the engine was clear of the yellow line, the train could descend to the lower green level. I should have broken the green line to show it's lower than the bridge. Hope you can figure it out.
I'd love to know more about the general lines in the area. This was ALL under the control of Justus Stearns whom I mentioned a few days ago. There is a biography of him, but I haven't read it because I wasn't so much interested in his southern operations before. But now, I really want to know more.
tipple bridge operations


Other memorable moments of the day.

We started with a wade of Rock Creek. But we need to rename it as Lost Stick Creek. We got across, and Doug looked back and realized he'd left his hiking stick. And he'd already changed out of his water shoes. So he changed back and went to retrieve his stick.
hiker wading a creek


We knew there were going to be showers during the day. We didn't mind hiking in the light rain much, but just sitting to eat lunch didn't appeal very much. We found a cave! It was completely dry under the overhang. You can see how dry the dirt is.
hiker lunch in a cave


We saw two more box turtles- both of them small. We were able to hike right along. For the most part, the trail was in good condition. I was a tiny bit concerned about the distance because there were a lot of hills. But the big difference was that there was not a fallen tree to deal with every 10 minutes. I wasn't overly tired at the end of the day.

And we had a cheering section! Sue came and found us near the end at Waters Cemetery. We just had about an hour to go after that.
woman near a jeep


We hiked a little farther than the trailhead to reduce the mileage for the next day. Actually, that won't be tomorrow. We have to change campgrounds, and the logistics are tricky, so we are "jumping ahead" to hike shorter mileage tomorrow. Then we'll come back and connect from today.

Miles hiked in 2026: 580.3
Sheltowee Trace miles: 248.3

Sheltowee Trace, Kentucky. K&T Railroad Bridge to junction with trail south of Ledbetter TH, 13.5 miles.

See Sheltowee Trace- Rain and Fun